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Nothing going on in the world, right? Third assassination attempt by a loony lefty on our duly-elected President. Dems refuse to fund DHS for 73 days. May Day around the corner. Dems promising retribution if they take the House.
I think I’ll just take a nap.










Following up yesterday’s range trip, I needed to reset the scope. The AR 10 works pretty hard, and has loosened up other things, and scope mounts are no exception.
I got the rifle out on the work bench and only 2 of the 8 machine screws were tight. When I loosened them up a turn, the scope moved freely back and forth. Of course, it rotated freely, too.
This is where the right tools make a critical job much easier. First, you need to make sure the entire rifle is level.

once the body of the rifle is level, you use the clamp on-level on the barrel as the reference point. The movable level then goes up to the flat turret top. As you then tighten the machine screws (alternating sides is best), you can see the effect on the level of the scope. The goal is to tighten up the screws to the proper torque, all while maintaining a level condition. The Wheeler leveling tool really simplifies the process.


Another way is to use angled leveling shims between the rail and a flat bottom surface of the scope. That works well IF you can find clearance and a flat spot.
The next great tool is a torque screwdriver. Most all scope manufacturers tell you the specific torque to use – it usually runs between 18 and 24 inch-pounds. NOT foot-pounds! Fat Wrench makes a great one with an easy-to-see and use torque gauge, and lots of bits for various screw heads and sizes.

Both tools come in compact and sturdy containers that fit easily into a range bag.

I’ve had many a time on the range when someone needs those tools; otherwise, their range time just came to an end.
It’s nice to be able to help out. And it also impresses the Range Babes.


Yeppers, dredged up the AR 10 and shot some of the donated PPU brass today. 168 g. Speer Target Match over the usual Varget load. Very windy from left to right and in your face. Without bragging (well, yes), I shot very well, and/because my wind calls were very good. At 528, I was holding 5 MOA left, at 900 I was holding 14.0 left! I shot 6 targets, three of them first shot hits, and expended 20 rounds. I wasted several at 1107 ( though I had one go center an inch or two high) – I maxed out the scope and was doing an 8 MOA holdover and 19-20 left.
It felt good.
I was still glowing when a Statey flashed me for going slightly fast into town. After noticing the Glock 21 on the passenger seat, and my immediate disclosure of returning from the range and being a board member, we talked about my AR and his upper and lower he regretted selling.
Just a smiling warning from NH’s finest. I’m glad I was wearing my desert tan jacket with camo American flag, etc.
In other news, an observant and knowledgeable reader had concerns about the tracks on the Hornady brass.

Yeah, it looks bad. I was saying, oh, dear, myself. But there is no actual marring of the brass; it’s more just highly polished. I used thick and slick camo duct tape on the jaws of my pliers. When the brass slipped, it left teeth marks but never broke through. I’ve tried to hold brass with my finger pressure only while reaming, but it was just too much torque. I’ll follow the brass through the next rounds of shooting.
And I don’t think too much brass is being removed. Swaging just did not work for me.
Only bad thing was that I noticed my eye relief seemed off.

Lot of recoil with this platform; I’ll retorque tomorrow.