Author: RI Red

Dunno. What do you want to know? Lawyer, shooter, boater, aviator, etc.

Bigger Boolets for Beginners

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Let’s get into the more pointy ones:

This, dear readers, is the dreaded Weapon of War Assault Rifle Boolet. It is pointy, and is (gasp!) .22 caliber*. Actual identification is 5.56 NATO, with the civilian version known as .223 Remington.

*Ok, I pulled a fast one. The Ubiquitous .22 Long Rifle is .222 inches in diameter; the almost as ubiquitous .223 Remington is .224 inches in diameter. The first is usually a 40 grain weight, while the second was originally 55 grains, but has put on weight in recent years, at 62 grains or even higher. Also, the first runs around 1100 fps while the second is around 3000 fps.

All things considered, the .223/5.56 is a tiny bullet, but it goes very fast. So, F = MV. It gets its increased F from cranking up the V. Is it a “high-powered” round? Eh, no. Its philosophy of use is “wounds pretty well” and takes combatants out of the fight. It’s also small and light so a lot of rounds can be carried. I recall that 8 standard capacity 30 round magazines is basic load out.

Back to bullet types, the military uses FMJ (Full Metal Jacket) rounds – something about some Convention in Geneva – as depicted on the left. But there are a ton of other configurations. The round on the right is FMJHP. By now you know that means Hollow Point.

Moar Beginner’s Bibliography of Boolets.

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How about this?

Got a lot to see here. For comparison, on the left, a simple 9 mm RN FMJ (remember, Round Nose Full Metal Jacket). Next, a .357 Sig FN FMJ – Flat Nose FMJ. Then, a .357 Sig JSP – Jacketed Soft Point. A .357 JHP – Jacketed Hollow Point. A .40 S&W FN FMJ – Flat Nose Full Metal Jacket. And finally, a .40 S&W JHP – Jacketed Hollow Point.

Do you begin to see the notation now?

Apropos of nothing, when I took this pic yesterday, it prompted me to change my G 32 from 9 mm back to .357 Sig. Quick barrel and mag swap, and I aired it out at the range today. It’s a shame that .357 Sig did not catch on. For a while, the US Secret Service, and a number of State Highway Patrols used it (great vehicle penetration, I’m told). But the ammo is about twice the price of 9 mm, with the necked down case, it’s more difficult to reload, and it definitely has a blast factor. But when you shoot it, you know that it is a brass balls manly round.

Moar Big, Beautiful Boolets.

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Let’s take a look at some traditional golden oldies. .38 Special has been around since 1898. Here are some different assorted Freedom Pills:

Left to right: LRN – Lead Round Nose. FN FMJ – Flat Nose Full Metal Jacket, with the more traditional RN FMJ – Round Nose Full Metal Jacket- in front. Then LSMWC – Lead Semi Wad Cutter.

So, some new concepts. Flat nose bullets do a couple of things – they make a nice neat hole in paper instead of the sometimes ragged one that round nose bullets make. They also can fit into slightly smaller sized magazines. I’m thinking specifically of .357 Sig, which shoots a flat nosed .355” bullet out of a necked-down .40 Smith & Wesson cartridge. Both .357 and .40 rounds are flat nose and fit the same magazine.

Next new term: what the heck is a “wad cutter”? Imagine shooting a bullet through a phone book (oops, later generations may have to Gurgle that term). A wad cutter neatly cuts a wad of paper. It leaves a very clean hole in paper targets and, lore has it from older cops, people targets. Pictured above is a Semi Wad cutter because it actually has a bit of a bullet nose on it. Below is an actual Wad Cutter with a standard round nose bullet for comparison:

Wait till you see the next round (hah!) of bullet choices!

The BBB 4th of July weekend is over!

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So, Boolets for Bangsticks Beginners. Let’s start with the lowly, but ubiquitous (I love that word!), .22. Take note:

Left is a CCI Mini-Mag Hollow Point, center is a Mini-Mag copper plated Round Nose, and right is a CCI standard. See the differences? The HP is meant to hit a varmint and expand (make bigger hole), the center is a target round, and the right is a slower moving target round. Check out the advertised muzzle velocities:

High accuracy .22 tends to be made of lead, and slower than 1100 fps. Why? The speed of sound is about 1100 fps. If a .22 goes faster than that, then slows down, it gets less stable in the trans-sonic range before it gets down to subsonic. If it starts out subsonic, it stays more stable. Also, the lead gets a better grip on the rifling than copper-coated, making it spin better and therefore more stable.
Pretty complex stuff for the lowly, yet ubiquitous.22, huh?

Boolets for Bangstick Beginners

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Just thinking, we’ve talked a lot about bullet propellers, but vary little about bullet projectiles. Let’s take a look:

  1. This is where the magic fairy dust is located. On .22s, it’s in the rim. On center-fires, it’s in … the center. When something strikes (a firing pin or a “striker”) the primer in which the magic fairy dust is located, it makes intense fairy dust fire. In fact, this is the only part of the boolet that is “explosive “.
  2. This is the Freedom Powder holder. It is made of brass (because manly things, such as “brass balls”, are made of brass). And even better, they can be recycled into more Freedom Powder holders!
  3. Freedom Powder, when ignited by the Fairy Dust fire, seeks to be free. Because everything in life does. It very quickly seeks freedom. In fact, it expands so quickly that things in its way will also seek freedom.
  4. The Boolet. Also known as the Freedom Seed. The Freedom Powder sends it on its merry way.

But Mr. KatNap Fever guy, I see boolets with all different shapes, sizes and headgear. What gives?

Well, dear reader and Beginning Bangstick Boolet connoisseur, this is where, truly, Diversity Is Our Strength. I shall start explaining soon. As soon as the wonderous, glorious Big, Beautiful, Fourth of July weekend is over.

Mid-range calibers in semi-auto for our not-so-new Bangstick Beginner

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Of course it will be the omnipresent Nine Millimeter! AKA 9 mm Parabellum and 9 mm NATO.

Designed by Georg Luger in 1901, it’s been around a long time and has steadily improved as powder and bullet design modernized.

It would be virtually impossible to list the names of all the 9 mm handguns currently in production. Most every manufacturer builds the 9. The interwebs tell me that about 60% of US police forces use the 9 as their standard issue handgun. All branches of the US military carry it. It comes in many sizes and flavors.

So how does the advanced beginner choose one? Try them out. Figure what size fits your hand and allows you to manipulate all of the controls without changing your grip. When you find a few that fit, go shoot them. Many ranges and gun stores will rent guns. If you belong to a range, ask around and see if any members give instruction or will just let you shoot with them – you’ll be surprised at the number of offers you get.

So, Mr. KatNapFever blogger, any suggestions? Why, yes!
Start off with another Germanic designer, Herr Gaston Glock. Glocks in 9 mm are some of the simplest, most reliable designs around. The full sized Glock 17 started it all off:

I find, however, that the compact version, the Glock 19, fits my hands better and can be carried concealed more easily:

Some people love Glocks, some don’t. For the latter, there are lots of alternatives – Smith & Wesson, Colt, Beretta, Taurus, CZ, etc. I guarantee you will find one or more you like.

Side note

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Now what do you think this was all about?

More clues.

I had not shot .38 Spl in a while. I grabbed the big ole box of UMC and assumed that I was firing all factory ammo. When I looked at the spent rounds, though, the primers were different colors. I suspect that I had topped off one of the factory boxes with some hand loads.

I told you that snubbies are snappy, right? Evidently the recoil from one round was sufficient to unseat a (poorly) seated bullet enough that it partially launched forward. You can see the powder burn on the side of the bullet closest to the forcing cone’s blast. And those are just scrape marks on the side of the bullet, not rifling marks.

And apropos of nothing, did you know that Colt and S&W have opposite revolving cylinders? And that the cylinder latches release in the opposite direction?
And who cares? Well, if you want your hammer cocking to advance the cylinder to a particular bullet, you’ll need to know what direction it revolves. Try it at the range – you’ll see what I mean. The reason I knew I had a malfunction was that the cylinder would not rotate into position. For an obvious reason, once I looked.

Next, midrange calibers for semi-auto new(er) shooters.